Picking the Right Snowblower

Posted on January 16, 2019 by leapgo

Buying a snow blower can be confusing: Honda has 14 models, letting you pick from two auger types, three starting systems, and three drive systems, not to mention various widths and snow capacities. Which one is right for you? Here’s how you can narrow down the selection.

Size and Power

For the best performance, you should plan on some overlap with each pass so the effective clearing width will be 20% narrower than the actual auger width. If you’re nearing the maximum capacity of a snow blower, you should plan on a 50% overlap.

Snow density can vary a lot between snowfalls, so it’s hard to directly correlate power to snow clearing ability. Fresh snow can weigh as little as three pounds per cubic foot, while settled snow can top 19 lbs. and packed snow can reach 25 lbs.

When selecting a snow blower, your primary concern should be the width and depth of snow the auger housing can handle. Once you narrow down your choices, choosing a model with a higher pound per minute rating will let you clear snow with less overlap between passes.

Wheel or Track Drive?

Track drives handle packed snow and slopes better than wheels. Choose a track drive if you need to clear snowbanks, snow that has been driven on. A track drive snow blower is also a good choice if you need to clear snow off of a flat industrial roof.

Snow blowers with wheels are easier to turn, saving time and effort when clearing flat surfaces like driveways and parking lots.

Single or Two Stage?

A single stage snow blower has an auger that spins fast enough to pick up snow and push it out of the chute. This mechanical simplicity makes these machines light and easy to maneuver.

A two-stage snow blower lifts snow off of the ground with a low-speed auger, then pushes it out of the chute with a high-speed impeller. This helps the machine pick up heavy snow and throw it further so it can clear wide areas.

A single stage snow blower like the HS720 is ideal for clearing paved sidewalks and driveways for single or two-car garages and works best for snow under 9 inches thick. If you need to clear larger areas, uneven surfaces or major accumulation, get a two-stage snow blower.

Electric or Recoil Start?

Honda engines are easy to start in cold weather, and all models have a recoil starter, whether it’s the only way to start the engine or it serves as a backup for the electric starter.

The HS720AS uses an AC motor to start the engine, which needs to be plugged into an electric outlet to work. All other electric start models have a built-in 12-volt battery that powers a DC motor so the starter can be used anywhere.

Hydrostatic Drive, Hybrid Drive or No Drive?

Honda’s single stage blowers have no drive system, but as the auger’s rubber paddles scrape against the ground, they help pull the machine along when applying light pressure to the handles.

All but one two-stage Honda snow blower comes equipped with a hydrostatic drive. By varying fluid flow inside of the transmission, the speed can be infinitely adjusted while letting the engine run at full power to operate the augers.

The hybrid power system on the HS1336iAS uses electric motors to operate the tracks. These motors produce maximum torque as soon as they start moving, making it the best model for clearing snow on slopes. The motors can also be used with the engine off for easy transport.

Do I Need Drift Cutters?

These are a must-have if you live in a place that gets frequent heavy snowfall. Snow drifts are created by wind gathering snow in one spot, creating a large hump that resembles a sand dune. Drift cutters are blades that extend above and ahead of the auger housing, slicing through these drifts so the snowfall into the path of the snow blower. This keeps the tops of drifts from collapsing onto the snow blower and the pavement. Drift cutters can be fitted to any two-stage snow blower.

Do I Need a Cold Weather Cab?

Wind chill can make a cold day uncomfortable or even dangerous. At 20°F, a 20 mph wind results in a wind chill of 4°F. A snow cab might not look like much, but by shielding your body from the wind, you’ll be a lot warmer. Honda makes cabs for all two-stage models.

Where Can I Get Parts and Accessories?

No matter which model you choose, you can get all the OEM parts and accessories for your Honda snowblower at www.hondalawnparts.com. Finding parts is easy: check out our “Snow Blower Parts & Accessories” section, or search for your model to see everything that fits your machine. We ship across the United States and Canada.

Servicing the EU1000i

Posted on January 9, 2019 by leapgo

The EU1000i may be fully enclosed to keep down noise, but it’s still simple enough that owners can do most of the maintenance themselves. Here’s how you can keep Honda’s tiny EU1000i generator ready to power your tailgate parties and camping trips.

Maintenance Schedule

Most maintenance is easy enough that you can do it yourself:

Before each use – Check the oil and air filter.
After the first month or 10 hours of use – Change the oil.
Every three months or 50 hours – Clean the air filter.
Every 6 months or 100 hours – Change the oil, check the spark plug and clean the spark arrester.
Every two years or 300 hours – Replace the spark plug.

Honda recommends having a professional perform the following maintenance:

Every year – Clean the fuel tank and fuel filter
Every two years – Check the fuel line for cracking.
Every 300 hours Clean the combustion chamber.

Fuel

Fuel should be used within one month of purchase. If the fuel is treated with a stabilizer, it can be used up to three months after purchase.

When adding fuel, do not fill past the red mark inside the filler neck. The top of the cap has a lever that opens and closes a vent. This vent should be open while the engine is running and while the engine is cooling down after use. Once the generator is cool, the vent should be shut to prevent fuel from leaking during transport and storage.

Accessing the Engine

The EU1000i has three maintenance covers:

To access the air filter, dipstick and drain plug, remove the maintenance cover on the left side of the generator. Turn the cover screw counter-clockwise and lift the cover up.

To access the spark plug, remove the access cover on top of the generator next to the handle.

To access the muffler, remove the cover on the rear of the generator. It’s held in by four 5 mm screws.

Oil

10W30 and 5W30 oil are recommended for all operating conditions. SAE 30 can be used at temperatures above 50°F.

This engine has Oil Alert, which will shut off the engine if the oil level is too low. If this feature is triggered, it will turn on a light on the control panel.

To check the oil level, remove the dipstick from the filler neck, located on the bottom left of the engine. Wipe off any oil and reinsert the dipstick, but don’t screw it back into the filler neck.

To change the oil, turn off the engine switch and close the fuel filler cap vent. Remove the dipstick and unscrew the drain plug at the base of the engine. Tilt the generator, letting the used oil flow down through the channel on the case into a container. Reinstall the drain plug. Add oil through the filler neck. With the generator sitting on a level surface, the oil should come up to the edge of the neck. This engine holds about 8 ounces of oil.

Air Filter

The air box is located to the right of the engine. To access the filter, push down on the tab at the top of the air box cover and lift the cover straight up.

Clean the filter in warm, soapy water. Squeeze out the filter and let it air dry. Dip the filter in clean engine oil and squeeze it out. To make this process cleaner, consider putting the filter and oil in a plastic bag. Do not twist the filter when washing or oiling.

Spark Plug

The spark plug is accessed through a maintenance cover on top of the generator. The plug gap should be between 0.024-0.028 inches (0.6-0.7 mm.) Replace the plug if the washer or insulator are damaged, or the electrode is worn down.

When installing the plug, thread it in by hand until it seats. Use a spark plug wrench to turn it another ¼ turn if you’re reinstalling a used plug, or ½ turn to crush the washer on a new plug.

Spark Plug Arrester

The arrester is inside the tailpipe, sandwiched between the muffler and the engine’s exhaust port. Once the back cover is off, remove the three 6 mm bolts holding the muffler onto the back of the engine. Remove the muffler. It should come off with the spark arrester and gasket. Pull the spark arrester out of the muffler and scrub off any carbon deposits with a wire brush. If the arrester or gasket are damaged, they should be replaced. Reinstall in reverse order.

Need Something For Your Honda Generator?

Hondalawnparts.com is an authorized Honda Engines and Honda Power Equipment dealer. That means we can ship OEM parts and accessories to your door whether you live in the U.S. or Canada. We have sections for common parts and generator accessories, or you can use our search engine to find the right part for your specific equipment model. Our site even has factory diagrams and descriptions, so you know exactly what you’re ordering.

EU1000i Generator

Posted on January 2, 2019 by leapgo

Are you looking for portable power without having to sacrifice quality? Honda’s EU1000i generator is perfect for camping and tailgating, offering enough power for common appliances, while its lightweight design makes it easy to move. A full enclosure keeps down noise, while advanced features like Eco Throttle and Oil Alert save money on fuel and repairs, making it the perfect choice for electric power on the go.

Output

This generator can output a steady 900 watts (7.5 amps) and peaks at 1,000 watts (8.3 amps) to handle momentary load spikes. Like Honda’s other generators, the EU1000i has a built-in inverter to create a clean power waveform. That means the alternating current coming out of the outlets is smooth and steady like it is from grid power, so it won’t burn out sensitive electronics.

The 0.6-gallon gas tank can power this generator for up to three hours and twelve minutes at 100% load, and about 7 hours and 6 minutes at ¼ load. Honda’s Eco Throttle automatically adjusts engine speed to match the current electrical load, so you’ll always get the best fuel consumption.

Power and Noise

The generator is driven by a four-stroke, 50cc GXH engine. The GHX is a popular choice for water pumps, compact farming equipment, and go-kart racing. The engine, generator, and circuitry are housed in an enclosed case to keep things quiet. When running, it makes 42-50 dB of noise, which is about as loud as the ambient noise in an office building. In most situations, unless you’re standing next to it, you won’t really notice the sound from the engine.

Portability and Serviceability

The engine on switch and starter handles are built into the side of the case, and there’s a built-in oil channel and spark plug access for easy maintenance. Oil Alert comes standard, shutting off the engine if the oil level is too low to keep the engine lubricated. The generator measures 20 x 13 ¼ inches and weighs just 29 lbs, making it easy to carry using the built-in handle.

Connecting To Your Appliances

Appliances connect to the generator through a 125-volt duplex outlet rated at 15 amps. That’s two standard outlets sharing the same circuit breaker. There’s also a 12 volt, 96-watt connector rated at 8 amps for recharging automotive batteries. Using this connector requires an optional 12-volt cable. The front panel has indicator lights for overload and Oil Alert, and there’s a large ground terminal connector for using an external ground. Granted, you’re unlikely to be using this low power generator in ways that would require an external ground, such as using appliances on metal floors or wet areas.

What Can This Generator Power?

If it’s something you’d use for camping or tailgating, there’s a good chance the EU1000i will be able to power it. Here are some common appliances that are compatible with this generator:

– Microwaves up to 650 watts
– TVs
– Media devices including Blu-Ray players, game consoles and media streamers
– Coffee makers
– Blenders
– Slow cookers
– Two-way radios
– Computers
– Phone chargers

Electric motors are reactive loads, requiring large amounts of power to start before settling down and drawing small amounts of current. For this reason, power draw from refrigerators, air conditioners, pumps and all but the smallest power tools are too much for this generator, even if the rated watts or amps are well within its operating range.

Need more power? The EU1000i has a parallel connector, letting you link two of these generators together with an optional parallel cable, doubling output without sacrificing portability.

Warranty

Honda guarantees the EU1000i and the GXH50 that powers it for two years of residential use or one year of commercial use.

Everything You Need for Your Honda in One Place

Hondalawnparts.com is more than just lawn care: we carry OEM parts and accessories for everything from Honda Power Equipment and Honda Engines including their generators. Check our Generator Accessories section for parallel cables and 12-volt cables, or use the search engine to find replacement parts for your specific model. Our site can break down parts listings down to specific serial number ranges, and it can show you factory parts diagrams and descriptions so you can be sure you’re ordering the right part. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

Storing Your Honda Mower

Posted on December 26, 2018 by leapgo

Fall is over, and that means it’s finally time to stop mowing. Before you put your Honda mower into storage, there are a few things you should do to protect your machine and make it easier to put back to work next spring.

Fuel

All gasoline, even if it’s treated with a stabilizer, will turn stale during long-term storage, leading to problems with lacquering and corrosion. Honda recommends draining the fuel system if the mower will be stored for longer than three months.

If your engine has a sediment cup, removing this cup and turning the fuel valve on will let the tank and fuel system drain out. GCV engines don’t have this cup, but the fuel tank can be drained by removing the gas cap and tipping the mower on its side. Collected fuel can be used in your car’s fuel tank.

Once the tank is empty, start the engine and let it run until it stalls. This removes any remaining fuel in the lines and carburetor.

Oil and Lubrication

Even slightly used oil contains acidic compounds left over from combustion that can damage your mower during storage. Changing the oil now will protect your engine. As long as you don’t start the engine when it’s cold, it’s fine to use oil recommended for summer temperatures. For most engines, that’s 10W30 motor oil.

HRC mowers come with sealed cables that don’t require maintenance. Cables on all other models should be covered in a light oil or silicone spray to prevent rust. Water displacers and penetrating oils like WD-40 and Liquid Wrench will eventually drip off of the cables, leaving them unprotected.

Honda recommends lubricating the cylinder with oil. To do this, remove the spark plug, pour one teaspoon of oil through the plug hole, Pull the recoil starter several times: this will spread the oil across the cylinder wall and push out any excess. Reinstall the plug. When you start your mower next year, don’t be surprised if it smokes for a few seconds: that’s just the oil burning off.

Cleaning

Now is a good time to clean the grass bag. Rinse off the fabric with a garden hose to remove trapped dirt and debris. Let the bag drip dry before storage.

Do not use a pressure washer or garden hose to clean the rest of your mower. This can force water into the engine where it can mix with the oil and seep through bearings, damaging components. Use a brush to remove dirt and debris collected around the engine, particularly around the cooling fins. A putty knife can be used to remove grass cakes onto the mowing chamber.

Use touch-up paint to cover up areas where the original paint has chipped off. Exposed metal parts can be protected from rust by applying a light coating of oil.

Battery

Electric start models have a small battery inside the box that houses the start button. This battery should be removed and charged both before and after long-term storage.

An automotive battery charger is too powerful for this battery. Honda makes a low amperage charger specifically for these batteries. The battery can be attached to this charger for up to 24 hours. Charging longer can cause overheating, damaging the battery.

Storing

Your mower should be stored in a clean, dry place. Keep the mower away from sources of ignition, including power tools, heaters and electric motors: even with the tank and carburetor drained, there may be enough fuel residue to release flammable vapors.

Don’t cover the mower with a tarp. This can trap moisture, promoting rust.

The handle can be folded down to save space:
1. Remove the grass bag and frame. These can be stored separately or placed on top of the mower.
2. Loosen the knobs on the handle joints.
3. Tilt the top of the handle forward, making sure that the cables aren’t being kinked.

Get the Quality Parts You Need for Your Honda

Want to get a few things fixed before the next mowing season? Hondalawnparts.com is a certified Honda Power Equipment and Honda Engines dealer, so we carry everything you need for your mower from bags to blades. Finding parts is easy: just select your model and serial number, and our site will show you parts listings and factory information specific to your mower or engine. We can ship your order to any address in the United States or Canada.

Using the WX10 Water Pump

Posted on December 19, 2018 by leapgo

The WT10’s small size and efficient Mini 4 Stroke engine make it perfect for pumping out sumps, removing puddles and powering fountains and garden-sized irrigation systems. These tips will help you get the most out of this model.

Choosing a Pumping Location

The most important consideration when setting up a water pump is head, the vertical distance between the surface of the water being pumped and the end of the discharge hose. This pump has a capacity of 121 feet of total head and 26 feet of suction. That means the surface of the water can be as much as 26 feet below the pump. However, reducing head, and suction head, in particular, will increase performance. When setting up your pump, try to place it as close as possible to the body water being moved, making up the distance with the outlet hose.

Speaking of hoses, the shorter they are, the less fluid resistance there will be, which increases pumping speed. The suction hose must be reinforced to keep it from collapsing under pressure. While there are several options for outlet hoses, choosing the widest hose available will reduce friction losses.

Connecting the Intake Hose

The order the parts need to go onto the pump intake will depend on whether you have the included standard connection system or you’re using Honda’s separate hose connector.

Standard connector: washer, hose coupler, clamp ring, hose clamp and hose
Separate hose connector: packing without tabs, male coupler, packing with tabs, female coupler, hose

When using the separate hose connector, flip the levers toward the pump intake to clamp the female coupler onto the male coupler.

The hose must always be used with a strainer clamped onto the inlet, and this strainer must be fully submerged during use. A standard strainer is included with the pump, but there are other designs available for pumping from shallow bodies of water.

Connecting the Discharge Hose

Unlike the intake hose, this hose isn’t under pressure, so it only requires a hose connector and hose clamp to attach to the pump outlet.

To use the included garden hose adapter, screw the adapter on just tight enough that it doesn’t leak, then screw in the garden hose. Keep in mind that the reduced diameter of the hose will reduce pumping performance.

Priming

Operating the pump when dry will cause the seals to overheat and fail. If you start the pump without priming it, shut it off immediately and give it a few minutes to cool off.

The filler cap is located to the right of the pump outlet. Remove the cap, pour in water until the chamber is full, and reinstall the cap.

Starting, Running and Shutting Off the Pump

1. Set the choke to “Closed” if the engine is cold, or “Open” if the pump was just running.
2. Set the throttle mid-way between “Slow” and “Fast.”
3. Press the priming bulb until fuel can be seen inside the fuel return tube next to the bulb.
4. Turn the ignition switch to “On.”
5. Hold the handle on top of the engine with one hand while using the other to pull the starter grip.

Once the engine is running, gradually open the choke as the engine warms up. At this point, the pumping speed can be adjusted by moving the throttle.

Once you’re done pumping, move the throttle to “Slow” and turn the ignition switch off.

Chamber Flushing

After using the pump, let the engine cool down and flush the pump chamber to remove any remaining water or debris. The pump drain plug is located on the bottom front of the pump housing. Once the water has drained out, pour water through the pump chamber the same way you would when priming the pump.

Everything You Need for Your Honda Pump

We may have “lawn” in our name, but www.hondalawnparts.com carries everything you need for your Honda small engine or outdoor equipment including water pumps like the WX10. We have a section on our website dedicated to pump accessories including hoses, seals and strainers, or you can use our search engine to find replacement parts specific to your pump. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

Servicing the iGX390 Engine

Posted on December 12, 2018 by leapgo

It may be Honda’s most advanced small engine, but that doesn’t mean the iGX390 is hard to work on. Here what you need to know about maintaining this engine so it continues to deliver top-level performance and reliability no matter what it may be powering.

Maintenance Schedule

Oil: Check before each use. Change after the first month or 20 hours of operation, then every 6 months or 100 hours.
Air filter: Check before each use, clean every three months or 50 hours, and replace the paper filter element every year or 300 hours.
Spark plug: Check every 6 months or 100 hours, and replace every year or 300 hours.
Spark arrester: If equipped, clean every 6 months or 100 hours.
Sediment cup: Clean every 6 months or 100 hours.
Fuel tube: Check every two years and replace as needed.

Honda also recommends taking this engine into a dealer once each year to take care of more difficult tasks like checking valve clearance and cleaning the fuel system.

Which Engine Do I Have?

The location of some components is different between standard and low profile designs. Standard iGX390s have a fuel tank on top of the engine, while low profile engines use a side-mounted or remote fuel tank.

Oil

Oil Alert will shut down the engine if the oil level gets too low. If your engine has an hour meter, an indicator light on the controls will turn on when the system is triggered and the ignition is in the “ON” position. If your engine doesn’t have an hour meter, the indicator light will blink when the engine stops or you try to start it.

The dipstick is built into the oil filler cap, while the drain plug is below and to the left of this cap. When checking the oil level, do not screw the cap into the filler neck. Always use a new washer with the drain plug when changing the oil. Both versions of this engine hold 1.2 quarts of oil. 10W30 motor oil is recommended for all temperatures.

Air Filter

Standard engines have an airbox located next to the muffler. To access the air filter, remove the nut on top of the air box, followed by the box itself. Remove a second wing nut and slide off the foam and paper filter elements.

On low profile engines, the airbox is next to the recoil starter. To access the foam filter element, squeeze on the tabs on the cover and swing it to the left.

To clean a paper filter, knock it against a hard surface or use compressed air under 30 psi to push away surface dirt.

To clean a foam filter, wash it in warm, soapy water or a nonflammable solvent. Once dry, soak the filter in clean engine oil and squeeze out any excess.

Sediment Cup

This cup uses gravity to collect dirt in the fuel before it can reach the carburetor jets.

1. Turn the fuel valve to “OFF.”
2. Unscrew the sediment cup from the bottom of the carburetor. It should come off with an o-ring and a filter. If you have a low profile engine, you’ll need to take off some parts to access the cup: Remove the air filter cover and foam filter element, then unscrew the 5 bolts and 6 nuts holding the airbox to the carburetor.
4. Wash the cup with non-flammable solvent and allow it to dry.
5. Reinstall the cup in reverse order, using a new O-ring and lining up the tab on the filter with the tab on the cup.

Spark Plug

The plug is located between the muffler and the fuel tank. Disconnect the spark plug cap, then use a 13/16 inch plug wrench to remove the plug. The plug gap should be between 0.7-0.8 mm.

Spark Arrester

The arrester is optional and can be fitted to any iGX390. If you have a standard engine, you’ll need to remove the air box to get access to all of the muffler protector screws.

1. Remove the screws from the muffler protector. There are two 5 mm screws on the right side, two 5 mm screws on the top, and one 6 mm screw on the left side.
2. Remove the two 5 mm screws holding the spark arrester inside the muffler opening.
3. Clean the arrester with a wire brush.
4. Reassemble in reverse order.

Need Something for Your Honda Engine?

From drain plug washers to major components, if it’s for a Honda, you can get it from www.hondalawnparts.com. As an authorized Honda Engines dealer, we’re able to offer a wide selection of OEM parts, and we can ship those parts to any address in the U.S. or Canada. Not sure what you’re looking for? Our site can filter results by your model and serial number, and it has built-in parts diagrams and factory descriptions so you can find what you need quickly and easily.

Servicing GC Series Engines

Posted on December 5, 2018 by leapgo

They may not be commercial engines, but Honda’s GC engines have proven to deliver reliable, efficient power in a wide range of mowers and home power equipment. Here’s everything you need to know to keep the horizontal shaft GC and vertical shaft GCV running reliably.

Maintenance Schedule

First 30 days or 5 hours of operation: Change the oil.
Every 90 days or 25 hours: Clean the engine air filter
Every 120 days or 50 hours: Change the oil. Check the flywheel brake (if equipped.)
Yearly or every 100 hours: Check the spark plug and spark arrester (if equipped.)
Every two years or 200 hours: Replace the spark plug and air filter element.

Oil

These engines are designed to use oil that meets SAE classification SJ or later. 5W30 and 10W30 are recommended. SAE 30 can be used at temperatures above 50ºF.

To check the oil, remove the dipstick from the filler neck. Wipe off any oil, then reinsert the dipstick without screwing it back into the engine.

To drain the oil on a GC engine, remove the dipstick followed by the drain bolt and washer on the base of the engine. Once the oil has drained, screw the drain bolt back in, using a new washer to get a tight seal.

To drain the oil on a GCV engine, remove the dipstick and tilt the engine, letting the old oil flow pour out of the oil filler neck.

Add oil via the filler neck. GC engines hold about 20 ounces of oil, while GCV engines hold about 12 ounces of oil. The oil level should come to the top mark on the dipstick.

Air Filter

To access the filter, push in the two tabs on the airbox cover and swing it out of the way. When reinstalling, the paper fins on the filter element should face out toward the cover.

To clean the filter, tap it against a hard surface or use compressed air to blow out any dirt between the pleats. Limit air pressure to 30 psi; higher pressures can force dirt into the filter medium.

Spark Plug

To remove the spark plug, disconnect the spark plug cap and clean out any surrounding dirt to keep it from getting into the engine. Use a spark plug wrench or socket to remove the plug from the cylinder head.

The spark plug gap should be 0.028-0.030 in. Replace the plug if it has signs of damage to the electrode or insulator.

When reinstalling the plug, tighten it by hand, then turn another 1/8-1/4 turn. If you’re putting in a new plug, turn the plug ½ of a turn to crush the washer and get a tight seal around the combustion chamber.

Flywheel Brake

This brake is included in some versions of the GCV. To check the brake, start the engine, set the throttle lever to “Fast” and release the brake lever. The engine should stop quickly. If it doesn’t, check the brake for wear:

1. Remove the three flange nuts from the top of the recoil starter. Remove the starter from the engine.
2. Remove the fuel tank and set aside. The fuel line does not need to be disconnected.
3. Check the thickness of the brake shoe, located next to the flywheel. If it’s under 3 mm, have the brake replaced by a service technician.
4. Reassemble the engine in reverse order.

Spark Arrester

This metal screen can be added to the exhaust pipe of any GC or GCV to comply with local fire codes.

To clean the arrester, wait at least 30 minutes after the engine has been on to ensure the exhaust is completely cool. Remove the three bolts holding the protector onto the muffler, then remove the bolt or screw holding the arrester inside the tailpipe.

To clean the arrester, scrub off any carbon with a wire brush. Replace the arrester if it is damaged or splitting. Reassemble the arrester and muffler in reverse order.

Storage

Wait until the engine has been off for at least half an hour to ensure it’s completely cool. Clean off any dirt using a moist rag. Do not use a pressure washer or garden hose: this can force water inside the engine.

Once clean, fix paint chips by adding a layer of touch-up paint and coat unpainted metal with a light oil. Remove the spark plug and pour one to two teaspoons of clean engine oil into the cylinder. Pull the starter several times to distribute the oil around the cylinder and piston, then reinstall the plug. It’s normal to have a smoky exhaust when the engine is first started. This is just the oil burning off.

Need Something for Your Honda Engine?

Hondalawnparts.com is more than an online retailer: we’re an authorized Honda Engines dealer, so we’re able to ship OEM parts across the U.S. and Canada. Our search engine can filter results by model and serial number so you’ll only see factory parts listings and diagrams specific to your model.

Servicing the WDP30 Pump

Posted on November 28, 2018 by leapgo

With a rock channel and the ability to handle solids up to 2.4 inches in diameter, Honda’s WDP30 is built to handle the roughest pumping jobs. Here’s how you can keep your diaphragm pump performing at its best.

Maintenance Schedule

Before each use: Check the oil level and air filter on the engine. Inspect the hoses and strainer for signs of damage.
After each use: Flush the pump chamber.
First month or 20 hours of use: Change the oil and grease the pump connecting rod bearing.
Every 3 months or 50 hours: Clean the air filter and sediment cup. Grease the pump connecting rod bearing and check the gearbox oil.
Every 6 months or 100 hours: Check the spark plug and (if equipped) the spark arrester.
Every year or 300 hours: Replace the air filter and spark plug. Change the gearbox oil. Inspect the pump diaphragm and clappet valve.
Every two years: Inspect the fuel line.

Honda also recommends bringing the pump in for service every year or 300 hours to clean the fuel system and check both valve clearance and idle speed.

Spark Plug

Replace the plug if the electrodes are worn down or the insulator is cracked. The electrode gap should be between 0.028 and 0.031 inches or 0.07 to 0.08 mm.

Gearbox Oil

To check the oil, the pump needs to be cold and sitting on a level surface. Remove the connecting rod cover, which is held on by a pair of bolts and washers. Remove the dipstick/filler cap, wipe it clean, and screw it back into the gearbox. Remove it again to check the level.

Here’s how to change the oil:

1. Run the engine for 10 minutes to warm up the oil. This helps it drain faster.
2. With the engine off, remove the two bolts and washers from the connecting rod cover. Remove the cover.
3. Oil will damage the diaphragm, so have a pan ready to catch the oil before it flows down the side of the pump. Remove the oil filler cap from the top of the gearbox followed by the drain bolt and washer from the base of the box.
4. Once the gearbox is empty, reinstall the drain bolt and washer.
5. Add SAE 80W90 GL5 gear oil until the dipstick reads full. It holds about 0.8 quarts.
6. Reinstall the washer, cap, and connecting rod cover.

Flushing the Pump Chamber

1. Disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses.
2. Roll the right wheel of the pump onto a block so that the suction side of the pump is pointed up.
3. Put the end of a garden hose inside the pump inlet and turn on the water. The water can be shut off and the hose removed once the discharge from the pump outlet is clear.
4. Lift the suction side of the pump up to allow any remaining water to pour out of the pump outlet.

Accessing the Clappet Valves

These valves create one-way flow through the pump during operation. Damage can result in leaks that reduce pump performance.

1. Disconnect the spark plug, turn off the fuel valve and flush the pump chamber.
2. Remove the nuts and washers from the intake and discharge ports.
3. Remove both ports. As you do this, note the valve position. These are directional and will need to be 4. reinstalled on the same side and in the same orientation.
5. Inspect the clappet valves. If they’re worn or damaged, replace them. If the case sealing surface is damaged, a wear plate can be installed.
6. Place the clappet valves on the studs. The valve’s flat side should face the pump housing on the discharge side and the port on the intake side.
7. Reinstall the ports and apply a medium-strength thread locker. Torque the nuts to 20 ft-lbs.

Sediment Cup

This cup collects dirt in the fuel before it reaches the engine.

1. Turn the fuel valve to “Off.”
2. Unscrew the sediment cup, located under the fuel valve. Make sure the O-ring is still inside the base of the carburetor and is in good condition.
3. Empty the cup and clean it with a non-flammable solvent.
4. Reinstall the sediment cup.

Spark Arrester

A spark arrester isn’t included from the factory, but it can be fitted to any WDP30 pump to meet local fire safety requirements.

1. Unbolt the muffler from the engine.
2. Remove the screws holding the protector onto the muffler. Lift the protector off of the muffler.
3. Remove the screw holding the spark arrester inside the tailpipe.
4. Clean off carbon deposits with a wire brush. If the arrester is cracked, replace it.
5. Reassemble in reverse order.

Keep Your Pump Running with Quality OEM Parts

Hondalawnparts.com is an authorized Honda Power Equipment dealer, so we’re able to ship factory parts and accessories to your door whether you live in the U.S. or Canada. Check out our pump accessory page, or use our search engine to find parts for your specific model revision.

The Honda Versattach System

Posted on November 21, 2018 by leapgo

There’s a lot of lawn equipment that’s great to have on hand, but the jobs they do are limited to a few days or even a few hours per year. Buying a piece of equipment for each task means having more to take care of, and often forces you to sacrifice quality to keep costs down. However, you can get around these problems with Honda’s Versattach System. While lawn multitools are nothing new, Honda’s collection of powerheads and attachments get around the pitfalls of other systems, giving you an affordable way to get Honda reliability for your less frequent landscaping jobs.

SureLock: An Easier Way to Connect Attachments

Other multitools rely solely on knobs to hold the attachment in place, have driveshafts that need to be lined up, or use pins that are hard to push out when switching tools. Honda’s SureLock system avoids these problems, simplifying attachment so you can switch tools easily. Here’s how it works:

1. Loosen the joint knob
2. Turn set pin knob 180 degrees.
3. Line up the arrows on the powerhead and the attachment, and slide the attachment into the powerhead shaft until the arrows meet.
4. Turn the set pin knob. If it clicks, the attachment is seated.
5. Tighten the joint knob.

Once that’s done, you can be 100% sure the powerhead can drive the attachment and the attachment won’t work loose.

Powerheads

Attachments are driven by a powerhead. This unit has an engine, throttle control and a short shaft with a SureLock connector. The difference between the two powerheads comes down to engines: the UMC425 uses a GX25, while the UMC435 has a more powerful GX35. Both engines are Honda Mini 4 Strokes. They can be used in any position like a two-stroke, but they don’t need mixed gas, are easier to start and have a wider powerband.

Attachments

Honda offers 6 attachments to cover lawn care jobs that would normally require rarely-used specialty equipment.

Trimmer: This string trimmer uses a two-line bump feed head and cuts a 16.5-inch wide swath. It can also be used with an optional three tooth grass blade for heavy brush, or use a variety of aftermarket heads by installing an adapter.

Hedge Trimmer: This attachment comes with a double-sided reciprocating blade that is 21.6 inches long. A joint at the end of the shaft allows the blade to be tilted a total of 108 degrees in 18-degree increments so you can get the perfect cut while maintaining a comfortable hand position. The trimmer is available with either a 5.3 inch or 25-inch shaft.

Edger: This attachment uses a standard 9 x 2-inch blade to cut clean edges around pavement and landscape transitions. A metal anti-wear strip protects the gearbox, while a wrap-around blade guard shields the operator from debris.

Cultivator: This mini tiller attachment has tines that are 9.4 inches in diameter and cut a path that’s 6.5 inches wide. With the engine at full throttle, the tines spin at 233 rpm.

Pruner: A 12-inch bar makes quick work of branches, while the 25-inch shaft gives you enough reach for most bushes and small trees. The oil reservoir is translucent, making it easy to check the level and keep the chain lubricated.

Blower: A long shaft, compact fan, and narrow exit make this attachment perfect for skimming across the ground, blowing up loose debris or lifting up layers of wet, matted leaves. Maximum output will vary depending on your powerhead: the UMC425 can drive this attachment to a maximum of 184 mph and 235 CFM, while UMC435 can drive it to a maximum of 235 mph and 250 CFM.

Extensions: Available in 19 and 39 inches, these extensions give you more reach when hedge trimming or pruning.

Warranty

Honda guarantees the powerheads, engines, and attachments for 36 months of residential use or 24 months of commercial use.

Need Something for Your Honda Equipment?

Hondalawnparts.com is more than a website: we’re a certified Honda Engines and Honda Power Equipment dealer, so we’re able to offer the same OEM parts and accessories you get at brick and mortar dealers. Better still, we have most items in stock and we ship across the U.S. and Canada. Our website can show you factory parts diagrams and descriptions specific to your model, making it easy to find just what you’re looking for.

Frequently Asked Questions about Honda Mowers

Posted on November 14, 2018 by leapgo

HRR and HRS Mowers: Honda Quality and Innovation for the Home Owner

Is there something bugging you about your new mower? Do you think you could get better performance from it? These are the most frequently asked questions about Honda mowers from setting them up to getting parts that fit.

Why Can’t I Tilt the Handle Into Place?

The flywheel brake is engaged, which is putting tension on a cable running on the side of the handle. Closing the bail will let you swing the handle into its operating position.

How Do I Discharge Clippings?

Set the Clip Director to “Bag” or “1.” If you don’t have a bag attached to the mower, clippings will fall out of the rear chute onto the ground.

Do I Need a Spark Arrester?

A spark arrester is a metal screen that traps sparks from the exhaust, preventing them from igniting vegetation. These devices may be required in areas experiencing a drought or that have highly flammable plants.

Arresters are not included from the factory, but they can be added to any Honda mower. The arrester attaches to the exhaust opening with a single screw and can be removed for cleaning. Over time, carbon buildup can fill the screen, restricting exhaust flow. This buildup can be removed with a wire brush.

How Do I Charge the Battery in My Mower?

Electric start models use a small battery mounted in a housing below the start button. The mower’s charging system recharges the battery as you mow. During the mowing season, this should be enough to keep the battery ready to start the engine.

Power may drop off during storage, requiring a recharge. This battery is too small to be safely charged with an automotive battery charger. Honda makes a low amp charger specifically for these small batteries. To use it, remove the battery from the starter box and connect it to this charger for 8-24 hours.

How Short Should I Cut My Lawn?

When cutting, the blade should trim the leaves, but not go through stems or crowns. Most turf grasses should be trimmed to around two inches tall.

Limit cutting to 1/3 of the grass’ total length. Cutting more at one time will make it harder for the grass to recover.

How Do I Mow Leaves?

For the best results, mow the leaves before coverage extends past the height of the grass. This may require moving two or three times per week when leaf fall is at its peak.

Lift the front of the mower one or two settings higher than the rear. This helps the deck draw in leaves instead of pushing them away. Set the Clip Director to “Mulch” or “9.” The mulch left by the mower should be broken down fast enough by your lawn that bagging won’t be needed. If you need to bag the leaves, install a leaf shredder in the discharge opening.

How Do I Store My Mower?

Drain any gas left in the tank, carburetor and fuel lines. Depending on your model, you may be able to drain everything by removing the sediment cup on the bottom of the carburetor, or by tilting the mower and letting the gas flow out of the filler neck. Once the fuel system has been drained, start the engine and let it run until it stalls. This removes any remaining fuel. Even if you’re using gasoline mixed with a stabilizer, it will go stale before next spring.

Remove the spark plug and add a few drops of oil to the cylinder. Pull the starter cable a couple times to distribute the oil, then reinstall the plug. It’s normal for the mower to smoke when first starting the engine next season.

It’s a good idea to thoroughly clean the mower and change the oil before putting it in storage. Never put a tarp over your mower. Moisture can collect inside, promoting rust.

Where Do I Find the Model and Serial Number for My Mower?

The model and serial number for the mower are printed on a tag on top of the deck next to the handle. If you’re ordering engine parts, you’ll need to know its model and serial number. The model name is printed on a large sticker on top of the engine cover, while the serial number is stamped into the engine block.

What’s the Best Place to Get Parts and Accessories for My Mower?

Hondalawnparts.com is an authorized Honda Engines and Honda Power Equipment dealer. That means we’re able to ship OEM parts and accessories for your mower straight to your door whether you live in the U.S. or Canada. Our site can find parts based on your model and serial number, and it will show you factory parts diagrams and descriptions, making it easy to find what you need.