Using WB20 and WB30 Water Pumps

WB20 Water Pump Honda

Is your pump not working as fast as you think it should? How long does it take to prime? Are the hoses on right? If you just got a new water pump, using it can be confusing. Here’s what you need to know to get your Honda WB20 or WB30 to perform at its full potential.

Operating at High Altitudes

If you will regularly operate your pump at altitudes above 5,000 feet above sea level, the carburetor needs to be re-jetted to get the air/fuel ratio in line with the available air. Without this modification, the fuel mixture will be too rich, leading to hard starting, poor performance and fouled spark plugs. If an engine with a high altitude kit is run at altitudes below 5,000 feet, the fuel mixture will be too lean, leading to overheating and engine damage. Even with the kit installed, maximum power will go down by about 3.5% for every 1,000 feet above sea level.

Maximum intake head decreases by about a foot every 500 feet above sea level. Above 11,000 feet, the pump will need to be at the same height or slightly lower than the surface of the water being pumped.

Setting Up the Pump

A reinforced hose and strainer should be fitted to the pump’s inlet port, while a standard hose can be used with the pump outlet. Be sure to check the hose clamps for tightness: small air leaks can have a major impact on performance.

The total head for the WB20 is 105 ft, while the larger diameter inlet and outlet of the WB30 limits its total head to 85 ft. Both pumps have a maximum suction head of 25 ft. When setting up your pump, try to get it as close to the level of the water as possible: you’ll get better performance with a shorter suction head than a shorter outlet head.

If you need to run the discharge hose across a roadway, place it so it goes perpendicular to the flow of traffic. Place boards on both sides of the hose to keep vehicles from driving over the hose.

Priming

Remove the cap next to the pump discharge outlet and add clean water until the pump chamber is completely filled. Screw the cap back onto the pump.

If you accidentally started the engine without priming the pump, shut it off immediately. Once the pump has had time to cool down, prime the pump and restart the engine. Running the pump without priming it will cause overheating and seal failure.

Starting the Pump

To start the engine, you’ll need to adjust the choke, fuel valve, throttle, and ignition. The choke lever is located directly below the air cleaner box on the carburetor, and the fuel lever is below that. The throttle is to the right of the air box, and the ignition switch is on the opposite side of the engine below the recoil starter.

To start the engine, the fuel valve and ignition switch need to be on. If the engine is cold, close the choke. Move the throttle out 1/3 of the way from the “Slow” position. The engine should start after one or two pulls of the starter grip.

Operating the Pump

Slowly open the choke as the engine warms up. Once the choke is open and the engine is running smoothly, adjust the throttle to set the pumping speed. It can take a couple of minutes before the pump has moved enough water to have it flowing out of the end of the discharge hose.

Stopping the Engine

Set the throttle to the “Slow” position and wait for the engine to return to idle. Turn the ignition switch off. The engine will shut down. Close the fuel valve. In emergencies, the engine can be shut off immediately using the ignition switch.

Get Everything You Need for Your Pump from One Place

www.hondalawnparts.com is a certified dealer for Honda Power Equipment and Honda Engines, so we’re able to supply you with everything you need for your pump. That includes the hoses and strainers you need to move water as well as seals, spark plugs and other components to keep the pump and engine working. Browse our selection of pump accessories or use our search engine to find parts for your specific model. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

Using WT20 and WT30 Trash Pumps

Using WT20 and WT30 Trash Pumps

Honda’s WT20 and WT30 pumps make it easy to move dirty water, but improper use can lead to poor performance and even damage to the pump. Here’s what you need to know to set up and use your pump so you can get the most from it.

Placing the Pump

Always keep the pump at least three feet away from buildings and awnings to prevent fires from engine heat and buildup of deadly carbon monoxide from the exhaust.

The WT20 has a maximum total head of 85 feet, while the WT30 can lift water up to 82 feet. Both have a maximum suction head of 26 feet. The pump will work faster with a shorter head. When making a choice between suction and outlet head, go for a shorter suction head. This will decrease power demands on the pump, increasing the pumping rate.

Before Use

Check the pump for signs of gas and oil leaks, and make sure the bolts on the pump are tight.

Clean off any dirt around the starter and muffler.

Inspect the hoses for cuts and other damage. Make sure the sealing washer that goes in the suction hose connector is good condition and that both connectors are secure. Check the strainer at the end of the suction hose, clearing it of debris and checking the connection.

Check the oil level, air filter, and fuel tank. Oil Alert will turn the engine off automatically if the oil level is too low, but checking ahead of time will keep you from having unexpected shutdowns.

Attaching the Suction Hose

The parts attaching the suction hose to the pump inlet should be installed in this order: sealing washer, hose coupler, hose clamp ring, suction hose and hose clamp. These pumps can handle solids up to 13/16 inch in diameter: anything larger can damage the impeller and housing. To keep this from happening, the suction hose should always be used with a strainer.

The parts that connect the discharge hose should be installed in this order: hose connector, discharge hose, and hose clamp.

Priming the Pump

Remove the filler cap on the top of the pump chamber and fill the chamber with clean water. Screw the cap back onto to the pump chamber.

If you started the engine without priming the pump, stop the engine immediately. Let the pump cool completely before priming the chamber and restarting the engine. If the pump is used when dry, the resulting heat can destroy the pump seals.

Starting the Engine

The controls for the engine are located directly below the air cleaner box.

– Move the fuel valve lever to “On.”
– If the engine is cold, move the choke lever to “Closed.” If the engine is warm, leave the choke open.
– Move the throttle lever about 1/3 of the way from the “Slow” position.
– Turn the ignition switch to “On.”
– Pull the starter grip. The engine should fire up after the first or second pull.

If the choke is closed, open it gradually as the engine warms up.

Setting Pump Speed

Once the engine is warm and it’s running with the choke open, move the throttle to the “Fast” position. The pump will pull water through the hoses. After water comes out of the outlet hose, the throttle can be set to get the desired pumping speed.

Stopping the Engine

The pump can be stopped immediately by turning the ignition switch off. Unless you have an emergency, it’s better to move the throttle lever to “Slow” and let the engine reach idle speed before turning the ignition switch. Once the engine is off, move the fuel valve lever to the “Off” position.

After Use

Remove the case drain plug and cover drain plugs from the base of the pump case. Once water stops dripping out of these openings, remove the filler cap on the top of the pump case and pour in some clean water. This will flush out any dirt or debris left inside the pump. After this water has drained out, the drain plugs and filler cap can be screwed back into the pump.

The Parts You Need for Your Honda Pump are Just a Few Clicks Away

Hondalawnparts.com carries replacement parts and accessories for all Honda power equipment. Our pump accessory section has the hoses, clamps, and seals you need to use your pump, and our parts section has everything you need to maintain your equipment. Not sure what part to order? Select your model and serial number, and our site can show you parts using factory descriptions and exploded parts diagrams. We ship across the United States and Canada.

Help Your Lawn Survive the Summer

Help Your Lawn Survive the Summer

Summer is a trying time for lawns with excessive heat, long dry spells, sudden storms and weeds. These tips will help you fight back against these threats so you can keep your grass looking green all season long.

Is Your Grass Dead or Dormant?

If conditions become too difficult for grass to grow, it can go into dormancy. In this state, the blades will turn brown. It may look dead, but the root system remains active. Most grass varieties can stay dormant for 4-6 weeks.

The best thing you can do for dormant grass is leave it alone. Don’t try to water the lawn to bring it back and don’t mow it. Let it recover in the fall. Once some green returns to the grass, you can resume watering and mowing.

High traffic areas will see more fatigue, going into hibernation before the rest of the lawn. Don’t be surprised if you see brown areas where people frequently walk. Adding some stepping stones in these areas can help keep people off of the grass.

Watering

Large quantities of water in short bursts helps support deep root growth, making the grass more drought resistant. Ideally, the grass should be watered between 5-9 am. to give time to absorb water and let the turf dry out. Watering overnight can leave moisture on the blades, opening the turf to fungal infections.

Use a rain gauge or a straight-sided can to measure water dropped on the ground by rain and sprinklers to prevent over-watering. If you’ve installed new sprinklers, you can measure their output by putting two or three rain gauges nearby when they’re active.

Mowing

If the layer of thatch is more than a quarter inch thick, roots will grow into it instead of burrowing into the soil. Thatch thickness can be kept down by making use of your mower’s mulching abilities. Honda’s MicroCut blades can mulch grass even when it’s wet, creating a layer of easily digested plant material. In turn, this helps the microorganisms in your lawn take care of the harder material that makes up the thatch layer.

Dull blades will tear the tips of the grass, making it more prone to infection. The blade edges should be straight and have the sharpness of a butter knife. If you see jagged edges on the tips of mowed grass, the blade is too dull.

Taller grass acts as shade and helps grow deeper roots. When summer temperatures are at their peak, warm-season grasses should be kept at a height of 2-3 inches, while cool-season grasses can be allowed to grow up to 4 inches.

Fertilizing

Stop fertilizing a month before your area sees peak summer temperatures. Lawn chemicals can burn the existing grass, and it can spur extra growth that won’t be ready to withstand the heat. If you have a serious problem that can only be helped with fertilizer, go for an organic mix. It will release slower than chemical-based fertilizers, making it less likely to burn the grass.

Weeds, Insects, and Mold

With the right mowing and watering techniques, new grass growth should push out most weeds. If you do have weed problems, keep in mind that post-emergent herbicides usually need to be applied at temperatures below 85ºF. Grubs will start hatching mid-summer. If they become a problem, grub control can be applied immediately.

Ideally, fungus should be treated before summer is in full swing. If it shows up later in the season, treatment will require treatments every two to three weeks to keep it at bay. Proper watering techniques should avoid most mold, but there’s not much you can do if you have repeated nighttime rainfall.

Keep Your Mower Running

Hondalawnparts.com is a certified dealer for Honda Power Equipment and Honda Engines. That means when you order from us, you’ll always get a quality OEM replacement. Finding the right part is easy: just select your model and serial number in the search engine and it will show you factory parts diagrams and descriptions. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.

HRC Commercial Walk-Behind Mowers

HRC Commercial Walk-Behind Mowers

Even the largest operations need a walk-behind mower on hand to do work in confined spaces and around obstacles that block larger machines, but most small models are residential mowers that can’t handle commercial demands. Honda’s HRC professional mowers are built for this niche, offering professional-quality components in a small walk-behind package.

Deck

All versions of the HRC use a 21-inch deck stamped from 16 gauge steel with an integrated front bumper and edge guards. This deck is supported by 9-inch wheels made out of NeXite, the same super strong plastic Honda uses to make decks for some of their residential mowers. These wheels ride on sealed ball bearings, so they roll easy and require no maintenance.

The deck can be used for rear discharge, bagging or mulching. Honda’s MicroCut design uses a high lift blade and a flat blade stacked on top of each other. With each pass, these blades cut twice, leaving behind smaller clippings, reducing grass volume by up to 30% and preventing clumping on wet grass. The onboard bag holds up to 2.5 bushels of clippings, and the deck has 8 cutting heights ranging from ¾ inch to 4 inches.

Engines

There are two engines available in these mowers: the GSV160 and the GXV160.

The GSV160 is an overhead cam design based on Honda’s residential GCV engines, but it uses upgraded components to handle commercial duty. This includes a cast iron cylinder liner, stronger crankshaft bearings, and a two-stage air cleaner. It still retains the low noise, low vibrations and easy starting of the GCV. This engine is only available with the HRX216PDA.

The HDA and HXA are both powered by the GXV160. The GX line of overhead valve commercial engines are renowned for their reliability and have become the de facto standard for professional small engine equipment. Like the GSV, it has a dual element air filter. Both engines are fitted with a manual fuel shutoff to prevent carburetor flooding during transit.

Control

The fold-down handle is made from one-inch tubing, giving it strength and providing a wide grip area that reduces hand fatigue. The grip area is angled to limit wrist tension, and the hand controls use sealed, adjustable cables that require no maintenance and won’t turn rusty while in storage.

Drive

The PDA is a push mower, while the HDA and HXA use a hydrostatic transmission. This unit is as small as a conventional geared transmission, but it delivers the same infinite speed adjustment of its larger counterparts. The cruise control function lets you set a speed, then return to it by squeezing the bail, even if you’ve had to shut off the engine. The transmission connects to the crankshaft using a shaft drive, so there are no belts to change.

The HRC216HXA also comes with Roto-Stop. Instead of mounting the blades directly onto the crankshaft, they’re engaged using a clutch. The blades can be stopped for safety when moving away from the mower without stopping the engine. That means you won’t need to restart the engine after moving debris or branches.

Warranty

Both engines offered in the HRC line have a two-year warranty, while the rest of the mower is covered for one year of commercial use or two years of residential use.

Getting Parts for Your Commercial Mower

As a certified dealer for Honda Engines and Honda Power Equipment, www.hondalawnparts.com can ship anything you need for your HRC mower to any address in the U.S. or Canada. Finding what you need it easy: just pick your model and serial number, and our search engine will show you factory parts diagrams and descriptions.

HRX Walk-Behind Mowers

HRX Walk-Behind Mowers

Are you looking for the ultimate residential walk behind mower? Honda’s HRX series has flexible drive systems, a high performance cutting system and an advanced composite deck. This makes it one of the easiest-to-use mowers on the market while also being able to mulch and bag clippings, even when the grass is wet.

Engine

This mower is powered by Honda’s GCV190. It uses an overhead cam design with a resin camshaft and internal timing belt, keeping the engine light and the part count low. The result is less noise and vibration without compromising performance.

Automatic decompression makes this engine easy to turn over, and an automatic choke means you can start mowing as soon as the engine is running. Some models also come with an electric starter. It’s powered by a small handle-mounted battery that charges off of the engine’s electrical system.

Superior Cutting Performance

The deck comes with Honda’s 4-in-1 Versamow system with modes for rear discharge, mulching, bagging and leaf shredding. The Clip Director lets you vary how much grass is mulched and how much is bagged, letting you mulch the maximum amount of grass without clumping.

Cutting is handled by a pair of MicroCut blades. With each pass, these blades trim the grass twice, improving the finish and making clippings more compact so the bag needs to be emptied less often.

A Dent-Proof, Rust-Proof Deck

The deck is made out of NeXite, an extremely strong, durable plastic similar to the materials used to make car bumpers and the outside layer of football helmets. Because this deck is cast as a single piece, it can be made at higher tolerances than a metal deck, resulting in an increased vacuum and air circulation for better mowing performance. It’s also nearly impossible to crack the deck, it won’t dent and it can’t rust. Honda is so confident about NeXite’s performance that they back it with a lifetime warranty.

Two versions of the HRX come with Honda’s trademark Roto-Stop system. This disconnects the blade shaft from the crankshaft and stops the blade. That means you can safely walk away from the mower to dump clippings or move a branch out of the way without having to restart the engine.

Self Propulsion

There are two drive systems available on the HRX:

Select Drive lets you set a speed range using the knob on the handle. From there, you can squeeze the handle to engage the drive system and get the speed you want.

The hydrostatic drive system comes with cruise control to set your operating speed. Pull the bail, and the mower starts rolling. If you have to stop for a moment, it will return to the previous speed without having to make adjustments.

With both models, the maximum drive speed is 4 MPH.

Models

Honda makes 5 versions of the HRX. Here’s the equipment you get with each model:

  • Electric start – VLA, HZA
  • Roto-Stop – VYA, HZA
  • Select Drive – VKA, VLA, VYA
  • Hydrostatic drive – HYA, HZA

Warranty

The NeXite deck comes with a lifetime warranty, while the engine is covered for three years of residential use. The rest of the mower is covered for 5 years.

Sourcing Parts

You can get everything you need for your Honda mower straight from your browser: just visit www.hondalawnparts.com. As a certified dealer, we’re able to ship OEM parts to any address in the U.S. or Canada. Finding parts is easy, too: just select your model and serial number, and our site can show you parts diagrams for your model, letting you see where everything fits.

Maintaining Your HRX Mower

Maintaining Your HRX Mower

The Honda HRX is arguably the best residential walk behind mower on the market, but like any outdoor equipment, it won’t last if it isn’t cared for. Here’s what you need to do to keep your mower working for years to come.

Maintenance Schedule

  • Before each use: Check the blades, rear shield, blade control, grass bag, blade, oil and air filter.
  • After the first 5 hours of use: Change the oil.
  • After the first 25 hours of use: Clean the air filter and adjust the blade control cable and drive clutch cable.
  • Every 50 hours or 6 months: Change the oil and clean the air filter.
  • Every 100 hours or year: Check the spark plug, clean the spark arrester (if equipped), and check all cable adjustments.
  • Every 150 hours or two years: Replace the air filter and spark plug and grease the rear wheel adjuster bushings.

Honda also recommends having the engine professionally serviced every year or 100 hours. The mechanic will check the valve clearance, idle speed and general condition of the mower.

Blades

The blades on these mowers can be handled like any other mower blade. They should be as sharp as a butter knife, and they should be replaced if the edges are worn, bent or cracked.

To access the blades, disconnect the spark plug cap and turn the fuel valve to “OFF,” then tilt the mower on its right side. Make sure the fuel cap is near the top of the mower.

When installing the blades, the curved ends of the lower blade should match up with the angled edges of the upper blade. When installing the blade bolts, the outer edge of the curved washers should face the blades. Torque the bolts to 36-43 ft-lbs.

Oil

Honda recommends 5W-30 or 10W-30 for normal operating temperatures, while SAE 30 can be used at temperatures above 50°F. The engine holds 12-13.5 oz of oil, or about a third of a quart.

The engine does not have a drain plug. To drain the oil, either use a siphon pump, or tilt the mower on its side so that the oil flows out of the filler neck into a container for recycling.

Air Filter

To access the filter, push down on the tabs on the air filter cover, then swing the cover downward.

To clean the filter, tap it against a hard surface or blow it out with compresses air. Limit the air pressure to 30 psi.

Spark Plug

The electrode gap should be between 0.028 and 0.031 inches, or 0.7 to 0.8 mm. It can be removed and installed with a 13/16 inch spark plug wrench.

When reinstalling a plug, thread it in by hand before using the wrench. Once the plug seats, turn it 1/8 to ¼ turn if it’s a used plug, or ½ turn if you’re installing a new plug. The plug should be torqued to 14 ft-lbs.

Spark Arrester

To access the arrester, remove the three flange bolts on the muffler cover, then remove the set screw holding the arrester inside the exhaust outlet.

Clean the arrester with a wire brush. If it has holes or other damage, it should be replaced. If you don’t have a spark arrester, one can be added to comply with local fire regulations.

Charging the Battery on Electric Start Models

The battery is normally charged by the engine electrical system, but it may need to be recharged after the mower has been in storage. This battery should only be charged with a Honda battery charger. Using an automotive charger will damage the battery.

1. Remove the three screws on the battery cover, located on the side of the box that houses the starter switch.
2. Slide the battery out of the box, then disconnect the wires on the battery terminals.
3. Connect the charger to the terminals, then plug the charger into a 120 volt outlet.
4. Let the battery charge for 8-24 hours. Charging for longer will damage the battery.
5. Disconnect the charger.
6. Connect the wires to the battery terminals.
7. Place the battery into the case with the terminals facing the handle. Route the wires so that they go across the top of the battery.
8. Reinstall the battery cover.

Get the Parts You Need for Your Honda Straight From Your Browser

Hondalawnparts.com is a certified Honda Engines and Power Equipment dealer, which means we can ship the OEM parts you need to maintain your HRX mower straight to your door. Select your model and serial number, and our site will show you parts that will fit your specific mower, complete with factory descriptions and exploded parts diagrams. We ship to both the U.S. and Canada.

Using the WH15X Pump

Using the WH15X Pump

At 20 lbs, the WX15X is perfect for small jobs from garden irrigation to draining the bilge on small boats. Here’s what you need to know to get the most from this water pump.

What Will the WX15X Pump?

This pump is designed to pump fresh water. Pumping corrosive liquids like seawater and mine runoff will damage the pump, while pumping flammable liquids including gasoline and diesel can cause a fire or explosion.

This is a dewatering pump, so it can handle water with solids up to 3/8 of an inch (10 mm) in diameter. It’s strong enough to pick up muck water, so it’s safe to use when draining ponds.

Pump Location

The WX15’s maximum total head is 121 feet under ideal conditions. Suction head can be no more than 26 feet, and may be less in high altitude operation. When setting up the pump, position it so that it is close to the surface of the water, making up the difference in height to the drainage point by using the discharge hose. Reducing suction head will reduce the time the pump takes to self-prime.

Keep the pump at least three feet away from building walls and other equipment. Heat coming off of the engine could start a fire, and confined spaces can concentrate poisonous carbon monoxide from the exhaust.

Hoses

Both the suction and outlet ports are 1.5 inches in diameter. The suction port should be used with a 1.5-inch diameter non-collapsible hose. The outlet can be connected to a standard hose that is at least 1.5 inches in diameter. Using a wider hose will reduce fluid resistance, improving performance. The shorter the hoses are, the better the pump performance will be.

Hose clamps are included with the pump, but separate hose connectors will be needed to mate the hoses to the pump housing. Inspect the packing inside the hose coupling before installation. If this part fails, there won’t be a good seal between the hose and the pump port.

The suction hose should always be fitted with a strainer to keep large debris from reaching the pump and damaging the impeller. A basket strainer is included with the WX15X, but a skimmer strainer is a better choice if you need to completely drain a body of water.

If the discharge hose needs to cross a road, run it directly from one side of the road to the other. Place boards along the hose to support vehicles crossing the road: this will keep the tires from pushing down on the hose and cutting off water flow, which can damage the pump.

Priming

Before starting the engine, water needs to be added to the pump chamber to prevent overheating and seal damage. If the engine is accidentally started with a dry pump, shut it off immediately and let the pump cool off before priming and restarting.

To prime the pump, remove the cap on top of the pump housing. Add water until it’s even with the bottom of the pump outlet, then reinstall the filler cap. Once the engine is running, it can take a couple of minutes for the pump to draw water through the hoses.

Starting the Engine

1. Move the fuel valve lever, located to the right of the air box, to the “ON” position.
2. If the engine is cold, move the choke lever, located above the air box, to the “CLOSED” position. If the engine was recently started, leave the choke in the “OPEN” position.
3. Move the throttle lever, located below the fuel lever, halfway between “SLOW” and “FAST.”
4. Turn the ignition switch to the “ON” position.
5. Hold the carrying handle and pull the starter grip.
6. As the engine warms up, gradually move the choke to the “OPEN” position.

Stopping the Engine

1. Move the throttle lever to the “SLOW” position.
2. Turn the ignition switch to the “OFF” position.
3. Turn the fuel valve to the “OFF” position.

After Use

Once the engine is off, remove the drain plug on the base of the pump and the priming cap on the top of the pump. Pour fresh water into the pump to flush out any dirt or debris. Once all the water has drained, reinstall the plug and cap.

Get the Parts and Accessories You Need for Your Honda Water Pump

Hondalawnparts.com can ship OEM parts and accessories for you WX15X to your door whether you live in the U.S. or Canada. We carry the full line of Honda water pump accessories including hoses, strainers, and clamps as well as parts like spark plugs and pump seals. Browse our pump accessory section to find the right combination of hoses and adapters to fit your needs, or search by pump model and serial number to find compatible parts for your pump.

Horizontal vs. Vertical Engines

Horizontal vs. Vertical Engines

Drive shaft orientation is one of the most misunderstood aspects of small engines, leading to a lot of fallacies about the advantages and disadvantages of each design. How do you know which one you own? Does one design last more than the other? Is there a reason you should choose a vertical shaft engine over a horizontal shaft or vice versa? Here’s what you need to know to separate fact from fiction.

Model Designations

All Honda engine model names start with two letters to designate their engine family. Currently, this includes the GX and GC. If there’s a “V” after these two letters, the engine has a vertical shaft. Engines that are the same model family and displacement share the same basic design and provide identical performance no matter how the shaft is oriented.

Engine Wear and Lubrication

Myths are persistent about one design wearing out faster than the other, but these can be attributed to a misunderstanding about how these engines work.

Some older vertical shaft engines have the intake and exhaust valves positioned vertically. This draws hot exhaust gases along the bottom cylinder surface, resulting in slightly more wear on that side.
This has led people into believing that gravity is a factor, leading to increased wear on vertical shaft engines, but the same wear pattern is found around the exhaust no matter where the valve is positioned.

On the other hand, some people believe that horizontal shaft engines will wear out faster because the upright position of the cylinders keeps them from being lubricated as well as a vertical shaft engine. Both horizontal and vertical engines with splash lubrication use a dipper or scoop to pick up oil in the crankcase and fling it onto the components inside the engine. Even at idle, oil is being flung around the engine at a rate of 20-30 times per second, overcoming any issues with gravity by sheer force. Likewise, while the oil channel location may be a little different, pressurized oiling systems still pump oil up to the head and let it flow back to the crankcase in both engine designs.

Driving Equipment

When engineers choose an engine, they decide on crankshaft orientation based on what makes the most sense to power the equipment. For example, the blade can be bolted directly to the drive shaft on a vertical shaft engine when used in a walk-behind mower, while a horizontal shaft is perfect for the pulley system used on an edger or the impeller in a water pump.

The only time you’ll likely have a choice between vertical and horizontal shaft engines is when you buy a riding mower. Some ZTR manufacturers choose to use horizontal shaft engines to reduce the overall length of the mower, while some older lawn tractors including several of Honda’s own models use a horizontal shaft engine to connect with the axle using a shaft drive. To connect the horizontal shaft to a vertically-oriented pulley, these mowers use a mule drive. This guides the belt along a pair of pulleys, bending them at a 90-degree angle. These added bends are more efficient and reliable than they sound, but they do complicate belt replacement.

Blurring the Line: Mini 4 Stroke Engines

The GX25 and GX35 are technically vertical shaft engines, but their oiling system is designed to work at any angle. This lets them be used in place of two-stroke engines in handheld devices like string trimmers. These engines also find use in stationary equipment, mounted either horizontally, as seen in Honda’s own WX10 water pump, or vertically to power small augers.

Get Everything You Need for Your Honda Engine

No matter how your engine is built or what it’s powering, you can get the parts you need for it from www.hondalawnparts.com. We’re a certified dealer for Honda Engines and Honda Power Equipment so we can ship the OEM parts and accessories across the U.S. and Canada. Need help finding a part? Our site can show you factory parts diagrams and descriptions for your specific model so you know what you’re ordering will fit.

GX and GXV 690 Maintenance

GX and GXV 690 Maintenance

Honda makes quality engines, but it takes steady maintenance for them to live up to their reputation for reliability. Here’s what you need to know to keep your GX 690 or GXV 690 V-Twin in top running condition.

Maintenance Schedule

These maintenance tasks are easy enough that you can do them yourself:

Before each use – Check air filter and oil level.
After the first month or 20 hours of operation – Change the oil.
Every 6 months or 100 hours – Change the oil, clean the air filter and check the spark plug. Clean the spark arrester if your engine has one (GX 690 only.)
Every 200 hours – Replace the oil filter.
Every year or 300 hours – Replace the spark plug.
Every two years or 500 hours – Replace the paper air filter element.

Honda recommends having a small engine mechanic handle these maintenance tasks:

Every year or 300 hours – Check the idle speed and valve clearance, and replace the fuel filter
Every two years – Check the fuel tube and replace as needed
Every 1,000 hours: Clean the combustion chamber (GXV 690 only.)

Oil

This engine is designed to use oil that meets the requirements for API category SJ or later. Honda recommends oil viscosity based on the temperatures the engine will be operating in:

SAE 30 – 50-113ºF (10-45ºC)
Conventional 5W30 or 10W30 – 23-113ºF (-5-45ºC)
Synthetic 5W30 – 5-113ºF(-15-45ºC)

To get an accurate measurement when checking the oil, place the engine on a level surface and let it run for a couple minutes. This will splash some oil on the dipstick, so it needs to be cleaned and inserted all the way into the filler neck before checking the oil level. Some versions of this engine come equipped with Oil Alert, which will shut off the ignition automatically if the oil level is too low.

To change the oil, remove the drain plug, located directly below the starter on the GX 690 and next to the filler neck on the GXV 690. Once the oil has drained, reinstall the drain plug and a new sealing washer. If your engine is due for a new filter, remove the old one with an oil filter wrench. Using a strap wrench can damage the oil pressure switch. Coat the seal on the new filter with clean engine oil before installing. Screw in the filter by hand, then use the wrench to turn the filter another ¾ turn once the filter seats. Pour new oil into the oil filler neck, located on the top of the cylinder directly to the left of the dipstick. Add oil until the level comes up to the upper limit mark on the dipstick. Start the engine and check for leaks.

Air Filter

To access the filter, pull up on the latches at the sides of the air cleaner cover and pull the cover away from the engine. The paper filter and surrounding foam element can be removed by unscrewing the wing nut on the GX 690, while they can be lifted straight out of the air box on the GXV 690.

To clean the paper element, tap it on a hard surface or blow it out with compressed air. When using air, limit the pressure to 30 psi.

To clean the foam element, wash it in a non-flammable solvent or soapy water. Once the filter is dry, soak it in clean engine oil and squeeze it out to remove any excess.

Before reinstalling the filters, wipe out the inside of the air cleaner box.

Spark Plug

To remove the spark plugs, first, clean the area around the spark plug caps and disconnect them from the plugs. Use a 5/8 inch plug wrench to unscrew the plugs.

The spark plug gap should be between 0.028 and 0.031 inches (0.7-0.8 mm.) Replace the plug if it’s damaged, corroded, has a worn electrode or the sealing washer is in poor condition.

Always start the spark plug by hand to prevent cross-threading. Once seated, use the wrench to turn the plug another ½ turn if it’s new or 1/8-1/4 turn if it’s used to get a tight seal. Reconnect the spark plug caps.

Spark Arrester

If your engine has a round high-mount muffler, simply remove the screw from the tailpipe and slide out the arrester. If your engine has a flat side-mount muffler, you’ll need to remove the four bolts holding the muffler protector. With the muffler uncovered, remove the three screws holding in the arrester.

Use a wire brush to scrub off any carbon deposits. Replace the arrester if it has signs of damage.

Keep Your Engine Running with Quality OEM Parts

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Maintaining the WX15 Water Pump

Maintaining the WX15 Water Pump

Honda’s WX15 water pump may be small, but that doesn’t mean it’s disposable. By keeping up on maintenance, you can get the same reliable service you expect from the company’s full-size pumps.

Maintenance Schedule

Before each use – Check the air filter and engine oil level.
First month or 10 hours of operation – Change the engine oil.
Every three months or 25 hours – Clean the air filter.
Every 6 months or 50 hours – Change the engine oil.
Every year or 100 hours – Check the spark plug and clean the spark arrester (if equipped.)
Every two years or 300 hours – Replace the spark plug.

The air filter may need to be cleaned more often when operating in dusty areas. The engine oil should be changed every 25 hours if the pump is used under heavy loads or in high temperatures.

Honda recommends having the following maintenance be performed by a dealer:
Every year or 100 hours – Clean the fuel tank and filter, and check the idle speed, impeller and pump inlet valve.
Every two years or 300 hours – Check the engine valve clearance
Every 300 hours – Clean the combustion chamber

Fuel

When adding fuel, it should only come up to the fuel level mark, located at the base of the filler neck.

The engine can run on gasoline with up to 10% ethanol or 5% methanol. It’s important that this fuel is fresh: either use it within one month of purchase, or up to three months after purchase if it has been treated with a fuel stabilizer. If you will store your pump for longer or you use it sporadically, drain the fuel tank and carburetor before storing. To drain the carburetor, remove the drain bolt directly below the fuel valve, then turn the fuel valve to “ON.”

Oil

The engine powering this pump comes with Honda’s Oil Alert system. If the engine oil level is too low, it will shut off the engine to prevent internal damage.

To check the oil, remove the cap from the oil filler neck. Wipe off the attached dipstick, then put it back into the neck without screwing it in. To drain the oil, remove the drain plug directly below the filler neck. Be sure to install a new sealing washer before screwing the plug back into the crankcase.

This engine holds 8 oz. of oil. Honda recommends 10W30 motor oil for most operating conditions, while SAE 30 oil can be used between 50 and 104ºF. Always use oil that is SAE certified SJ or later.

Air Filter

To open the air cleaner box, push down on the two latch tabs on the top of the cover, then swing the cover out and down.

To clean the air filter, wash it in warm, soapy water or a nonflammable solvent. Gently squeeze the filter to remove the water or solvent, then let the filter dry. Dip the filter in clean engine oil, then squeeze it out. Never twist the filter: this can alter its shape, which can keep it from making a good seal inside the air cleaner box. Always wipe out the inside of the air cleaner before reinstalling the filter.

Spark Plug

To find the spark plug, look at the top of the fuel tank. The plug is directly below the round indent in the side of the tank.

To remove the plug, unhook the spark plug cap, then unscrew the plug with a 5/8 inch spark plug wrench. The gap between the electrodes should be between 0.024-0.028 inches (0.60-0.70 mm.) Replace the plug if the electrodes or insulator are damaged, or the plug has fouled.

When installing the spark plug, first thread it in by hand to prevent cross-threading. Use the plug wrench to tighten down the plug, turning an extra 1/8 turn once the plug is seated against the engine to get a good seal. If you’re installing a new plug, turn it an extra ¼-½ turn to form the washer to the plug and engine opening.

Spark Arrester

A spark arrester isn’t included from the factory, but it can be added to the muffler on any WX15 pump to meet local fire regulations.

To access the spark arrester, first, remove the muffler protector. It’s held on by three 5 mm bolts: two are located on the bottom of the cover, while the third is on the top right side. Remove the screw on the side of the exhaust outlet and slide out the arrester.

Clean any carbon buildup on the arrester screen with a wire brush. Replace the spark arrester if it has signs of holes, cracking or other damage.

Get the Parts You Need to Maintain Your Honda Pump

Hondalawnparts.com is a certified dealer for both Honda Engines and Honda Power Equipment. Our site has built-in factory information including parts diagrams and descriptions, making it easy to find what you’re looking for from hoses to spark plugs. We ship across the U.S. and Canada.